The America's Junction excursion from Memphis to Cincinnati allows a glimpse of three very different rivers, and a whole lot of history. As the R/B River Explorer glides quietly past Cairo Point, it enters the deep green waters of the Ohio River. We leave behind the mocha-shaded Upper Mississippi River, which gets its rich brown color from the tremendous amounts of Missouri topsoil eroded into the flow. There are plenty of stories here at the confluence, and upriver as well, but for now I'd like to tell you a story that comes from our boarding city.

Memphis is the home of Elvis and Beale Street and The Pyramid. But there's so much more to see. And the taste of the barbecue alone is a story in itself. Paul, our on board concierge, had suggested that I take a stroll up Beale Street to A. Schwab's, the oldest family-owned general store in the South. Presided over by Mr. Schwab, the place is a virtual museum of times past. Why, there's enough history on the mezzanine level and down in the basement to keep one busy for hours. You name it, they've got it, practically anything short of lumber and roofing materials that a late nineteenth century family could have needed

Various sections house and display the newer stuff, like underwear ("largest selection of longjohns in the USA"), iron skillets, toiletries, holiday decorations, et cetera. I stumbled upon things like an old cast iron Uncle Sam bank, original sheet music from W. C. Handy's publishing company, a chandelier from the local Orpheum Theater (most off-Broadway shows run in a single theater in the country), old farm equipment, ancient bottles... all sorts of treasures from olden times. And right there with me to interpret it all was Mr. Schwab, who thoughtfully and patiently explained the importance of these pieces to me.

Probably in his late eighties or early nineties, Mr. Schwab has lost a step or two physically, but he's as sharp mentally as the tacks on the next aisle. He's part retailer, part curator and he doesn't mind telling you the stories behind everything you purchase. He hand-writes your receipt and gets a clerk to wrap your acquisition in butcher paper, just as they did a century ago. No plastic bags here! That's how it's always been done at A. Schwab's. Worked well then, and works just as well today. Why change now?